Reviewed by Sydney Chan, a writer.
Dumpling skin should be thin and bouncy. Prawns should be filled to the brim with umami flavor. And mango pudding should be so light and fresh that the world around you stops for a moment as you enjoy your first bite. As a Chinese American who’s grown up eating quite a bit of Chinese cuisine, I don’t take my culture’s food lightly. Oftentimes, when a new restaurant says they’re going to put an imaginative twist on Asian food in an upscale setting, they sacrifice either the flavors or the ambience. Fortunately, 53, a new restaurant located on 53 West 53rd Street in Manhattan, checks all the boxes, and then some.
As soon as I walked into this restaurant, I was quickly reminded that New York City is not only known for being the media and entertainment capital of the world—it’s also a foodie’s dream travel destination. The ambience of 53 is incredible, and paired with its amazing food and top-of-the-line hospitality (shoutout to our server Joe!), this spot is top-notch. So grab your fork, or a pair of chopsticks if you’re feeling brave, and dive in.
Before getting into the heart of any restaurant—the food—I want to quickly touch on the interior design and drink menu of 53. The moment you walk in, you’re embraced by warm lighting, wood-paneled walls, and beautifully curved architecture—53 is dedicated to setting the mood and tone of your meal from the get-go. The restaurant also offers private dining in a separate room, but I’m unable to make judgments on that dining experience, as when I went to check it out, the space was not fully finished.
As for drinks, 53 has a vast menu for those both under and over legal drinking age. For obvious reasons, I can’t share any insight into the alcoholic drinks, but the mocktails, known as “Zero Proof Cocktails” on the menu, are creative and refreshing. By our server Joe’s recommendation, I got the Club Razz, a drink made with raspberry puree, mint tea, lemon juice, and sparkling water, and it did not disappoint. It was the perfect fresh and bright palate cleanser between dishes.
The menu structure at 53 is really interesting, once you get the time to take a closer look. Joe kindly told us a bit about each section, but in brief, the dishes are perfect for sharing. The plates found in the “cold/hot” section of the menu were smaller than we expected, but this was truly a blessing in disguise, since we were able to try more things. Most items came in a set of three like at dim sum restaurants. Since we were eager to get a complete feel for the restaurant, we tried a dish in almost every category—steam, grill, wok, and clay pot—which filled us up, but also left us with a few leftovers. Everything was delicious, but I had a few favorites that I’ll introduce in more detail: the xiao long bao, king prawn, mushroom clay pot, wagyu beef sate, and mango pudding.
The first two, the xiao long bao and king prawn, were two of Joe’s favorites, so we had to give them a try. In all honesty, I was a little bit skeptical about the xiao long bao (also known as soup dumplings) at first. Not many places make it right, creating dumplings with a tough skin and/or a dry filling. In particular, I’ve found many chicken dumplings to be on the dry side, so I was a little worried about these ones. However, I was pleasantly surprised. The three little pockets of goodness on the plate held a good amount of soup, and the black truffle took it to another level. With the mellower flavor of the chicken (in comparison to pork or duck), the truffle added an extra layer of umami and flavor to tie the knot on this dish.
The king prawn was another home run in my book. Served on a skewer with a wedge of lime on the side, this dish is any seafood lover’s dream. Honestly, it’s a dish worth trying for even those who are a little pickier in regards to seafood. What I loved about these prawns was that they didn’t have a briny taste, which allowed for the beautiful spice rub they were marinated in to shine through.
Something I find truly inspiring about Asian cooking is its ability to infuse so much flavor into a vegetarian dish. The mushroom clay pot, full of savory juices, took me to flavor town, packing a punch of savory goodness into every bite. Still, the best part of this clay pot, in my opinion, was the crispy rice on the bottom of the pot. Brown but not burnt, the crunchiness of the rice contrasting with the soft mushrooms was a match made in heaven.
The last savory dish of the night was the wagyu beef sate. You know how the saying goes—“Save the best for last.” The tender beef, paired with the creamy but not overly sweet peanut sauce, was the perfect savory end to the dish. At that point, we thought we were done. That is, until Joe brought out the dessert.
Before long, the nama chocolate and mango pudding were set on our table. I’m not a big chocolate fan, so I definitely prefer the mango pudding, but for you chocolate lovers out there, the mousse is incredibly rich, and paired with the vanilla ice cream, it’s a heck of a way to end your meal. For those who like ending on a lighter note, the mango pudding is superb. You can tell they use fresh mangoes, and the greek yogurt ice cream, something I hadn’t tried before, adds a nice, subtly tart note that I didn’t know I needed until I took a bite.
This restaurant is truly one to remember. After researching a little more about its owner—the Altamarea Group—and all the success it’s had nationwide, their dedication and love for food is hard to miss. Delicious dishes, a beautiful dining room, and incredible service—I’m looking forward to coming back the next time I’m in the city. Until next time!
53 hours (Palo Alto location):
Lunch
Tuesday through Thursday: 12:00 p.m. to 2:30 p.m.
Dinner
Sunday through Wednesday: 5:00 p.m. to 10:30 p.m.
Thursday through Saturday: 5:00 p.m. to 11:00 p.m.
Located on 53 West 53rd Street, New York, NY.
Zenith Review Magazine 